Skip to content
🌱Enjoy 20% off when you buy 3 items, 25% off 6 items, and 30% off 12+ items 🌿
🌱Enjoy 20% off when you buy 3 items, 25% off 6 items, and 30% off 12+ items 🌿
Seed starting and plant propagation setup with seedlings, cuttings, and division techniques for perennial vegetables and herbs

Seed Starting and Propagation Techniques for Perennial Vegetables and Herbs

While perennial vegetables and herbs are long-lived once established, getting them started requires different techniques than annual crops. Some perennials grow easily from seed, others demand division or cuttings, and a few require specialized stratification or scarification. Understanding these propagation methods allows you to expand your perennial garden affordably, share plants with friends, and preserve rare or heirloom varieties.

This guide covers all the propagation techniques you'll need to successfully start and multiply perennial vegetables and herbs, from simple seed sowing to advanced layering and grafting.

Understanding Perennial Propagation

Perennials can be propagated through two main approaches:

Sexual Propagation (Seeds)

Advantages: Inexpensive, produces many plants, maintains genetic diversity, good for species preservation

Disadvantages: Slower to maturity, genetic variation (may not match parent exactly), some perennials difficult from seed

Best for: Asparagus, herbs (most), Good King Henry, skirret, burdock, lovage

Asexual Propagation (Vegetative)

Advantages: Faster to maturity, genetically identical to parent, only option for sterile varieties

Disadvantages: Fewer plants produced, requires parent plant, can spread diseases

Best for: Rhubarb, artichokes, horseradish, French tarragon, many herbs

Starting Perennials from Seed

Seeds That Need Cold Stratification

Many perennials require a cold period to break dormancy, mimicking winter conditions.

Plants requiring stratification: Asparagus, lovage, sorrel, some herbs (lavender, echinacea)

Method 1 - Refrigerator Stratification:

  1. Mix seeds with moist (not wet) sand or vermiculite
  2. Place in sealed plastic bag or container
  3. Refrigerate (not freeze) for 4-12 weeks depending on species
  4. Check weekly for moisture and mold
  5. Sow after stratification period

Method 2 - Winter Sowing:

  1. Sow seeds in containers outdoors in late fall/early winter
  2. Nature provides the cold stratification
  3. Seeds germinate in spring when conditions are right
  4. Excellent for asparagus, lovage, and hardy herbs

Seeds That Need Scarification

Some perennials have hard seed coats that must be broken for germination.

Plants requiring scarification: Burdock, some legumes

Methods:

  • Mechanical: Nick seed coat with file or knife (careful not to damage embryo)
  • Soaking: Soak in warm water 12-24 hours before planting
  • Hot water treatment: Pour hot (not boiling) water over seeds, let cool, soak overnight

Direct Sowing vs. Starting Indoors

Direct sow outdoors:

  • Good King Henry, sorrel, lovage, burdock
  • Hardy herbs: thyme, oregano, sage, chives
  • Sow in spring or fall
  • Mark locations clearly (perennials emerge slowly)

Start indoors:

  • Asparagus (for transplanting year-old crowns)
  • Artichokes (in cold climates)
  • Tender herbs: rosemary, lavender
  • Start 8-12 weeks before last frost

Seed Starting Mix for Perennials

Use a well-draining mix:

  • 50% peat moss or coco coir
  • 30% perlite or vermiculite
  • 20% compost (fine, screened)
  • Add mycorrhizal inoculant for perennials (beneficial fungi)

Germination Requirements

Plant Days to Germinate Temperature Light
Asparagus 14-21 70-75°F Light helpful
Lovage 10-20 60-70°F Darkness
Sorrel 7-14 60-70°F Light
Thyme 14-28 65-70°F Light
Oregano 7-14 65-70°F Light
Sage 10-21 65-70°F Light
Lavender 14-30 65-70°F Light

Division: The Easiest Propagation Method

Division is the simplest way to propagate many perennials, creating multiple plants from one established clump.

Best Time to Divide

  • Spring: As new growth emerges (chives, lemon balm, mint)
  • Fall: After flowering, 4-6 weeks before first frost (most perennials)
  • Avoid: Hot summer months, during flowering

Plants Easy to Divide

  • Chives: Divide every 3-4 years; each division should have 10+ bulbs
  • Lemon balm: Divide every 2-3 years; spreads vigorously
  • Mint: Divide anytime during growing season; very forgiving
  • Oregano: Divide every 3-4 years to rejuvenate
  • Thyme: Divide every 3-4 years or when center dies out
  • Rhubarb: Divide every 5-7 years; each division needs 1-2 buds
  • Sorrel: Divide every 3-4 years
  • Good King Henry: Divide every 3-4 years

Division Technique

  1. Water thoroughly 24 hours before dividing
  2. Dig entire clump with spade or fork, keeping root ball intact
  3. Shake off excess soil to see natural divisions
  4. Separate sections:
    • Small clumps: Pull apart by hand
    • Large clumps: Use two forks back-to-back to pry apart
    • Tough crowns (rhubarb): Use sharp knife or spade to cut
  5. Each division should have: Healthy roots, 3-5 shoots or buds, adequate root mass
  6. Replant immediately at same depth as original
  7. Water well and keep moist until established

Root Cuttings

Some perennials propagate readily from root pieces, making them easy to multiply or share.

Plants for Root Cuttings

  • Horseradish: The classic root cutting plant
  • Comfrey: Any root piece will grow
  • Mint: Roots spread and sprout readily

Root Cutting Technique

  1. Harvest roots in fall or early spring when dormant
  2. Cut into sections 2-4 inches long, pencil thickness or larger
  3. Mark top and bottom (cut top straight, bottom at angle)
  4. Plant vertically or horizontally 2-3 inches deep
  5. Keep moist until shoots emerge

Horseradish specific: Plant root cuttings at 45° angle, top end up, 12-18 inches apart. Harvest in fall, save best roots for replanting.

Stem Cuttings

Many perennial herbs propagate easily from stem cuttings, producing rooted plants in 2-4 weeks.

Best Plants for Stem Cuttings

  • Softwood cuttings (spring/early summer): Rosemary, lavender, sage, thyme, oregano, mint
  • Semi-hardwood cuttings (mid-late summer): Rosemary, lavender, sage

Stem Cutting Technique

  1. Take cuttings in morning when plants are hydrated
  2. Cut 3-6 inch stems just below a leaf node
  3. Remove lower leaves (bottom 2/3 of stem)
  4. Optional: Dip in rooting hormone (increases success rate)
  5. Insert in rooting medium: 50/50 perlite/peat or vermiculite/peat
  6. Keep humid: Cover with plastic dome or bag
  7. Provide bright indirect light
  8. Mist daily to maintain humidity
  9. Check for roots after 2-3 weeks (gentle tug test)
  10. Transplant when roots are 1-2 inches long

Rooting Success Tips

  • Use clean, sharp tools (sterilize with alcohol)
  • Take cuttings from healthy, disease-free plants
  • Morning is best time (highest moisture content)
  • Bottom heat (70-75°F) speeds rooting
  • Remove any flowers or buds (directs energy to roots)
  • Don't overwater (causes rot)

Layering

Layering allows stems to root while still attached to the parent plant, ensuring success.

Simple Layering

Best for: Rosemary, sage, thyme (low-growing branches)

  1. Select flexible stem that can reach the ground
  2. Wound the stem where it will touch soil (scrape or nick bark)
  3. Bury wounded section 2-3 inches deep, leaving tip exposed
  4. Secure with wire pin or rock
  5. Keep moist
  6. Check for roots after 6-8 weeks
  7. Sever from parent once well-rooted, transplant

Mound Layering

Best for: Thyme, sage (woody herbs)

  1. Mound soil or compost over center of plant in spring
  2. Stems root where buried
  3. Separate rooted stems in fall
  4. Excellent for rejuvenating old plants

Crown Division for Specific Perennials

Rhubarb

  1. Divide in early spring as buds emerge, or fall
  2. Dig entire crown
  3. Cut into sections with sharp spade, each with 1-2 buds and substantial root
  4. Replant immediately with buds 2 inches below soil surface
  5. Space 3-4 feet apart
  6. Don't harvest first year, light harvest second year

Asparagus

From seed:

  1. Start indoors 12-14 weeks before last frost
  2. Transplant to nursery bed first year
  3. Grow for one year to develop crowns
  4. Transplant crowns to permanent bed in second spring
  5. Begin light harvest in third year

From crowns (faster):

  1. Purchase 1-year crowns (better than older crowns)
  2. Plant in spring as soon as soil can be worked
  3. Dig trenches 6-8 inches deep
  4. Space crowns 12-18 inches apart
  5. Spread roots over mound of soil in trench
  6. Cover with 2-3 inches soil, gradually fill trench as ferns grow
  7. Begin light harvest in third year

Artichokes

  1. Divide in fall or early spring
  2. Remove offsets (side shoots) with roots attached
  3. Each offset should have roots and growing point
  4. Replant immediately 4-5 feet apart
  5. In cold climates: Start from seed indoors, treat as annual or heavily mulch

Propagating Specific Herbs

Rosemary

Best method: Stem cuttings (spring or fall)

Challenges: Slow to root (4-6 weeks), needs warmth and humidity

Tips: Use semi-hardwood cuttings, rooting hormone helps, bottom heat essential

Lavender

Best method: Stem cuttings (summer) or layering

Challenges: Can be slow to root

Tips: Use non-flowering shoots, high humidity, patience

Thyme

Best method: Division, layering, or stem cuttings

Challenges: None—very easy

Tips: Divide every 3-4 years to rejuvenate, roots easily from cuttings

Sage

Best method: Stem cuttings or layering

Challenges: Moderate difficulty

Tips: Take cuttings from new growth, replace plants every 4-5 years

Oregano

Best method: Division or stem cuttings

Challenges: None—very easy

Tips: Spreads readily, divide to control or share

Mint

Best method: Division, root cuttings, or stem cuttings

Challenges: None—almost impossible to kill

Tips: Any piece with roots will grow, contain aggressively

French Tarragon

Best method: Division only (doesn't produce viable seed)

Challenges: Must have parent plant

Tips: Divide every 3-4 years in spring, don't confuse with Russian tarragon (inferior flavor, grows from seed)

Hardening Off and Transplanting

Whether started from seed or cuttings, perennials need gradual acclimation to outdoor conditions.

Hardening Off Process (7-10 days)

  1. Day 1-2: Place in shade outdoors for 2-3 hours
  2. Day 3-4: Increase to 4-5 hours, some morning sun
  3. Day 5-6: Full day outdoors, protected from wind
  4. Day 7-8: Full day with some direct sun
  5. Day 9-10: Full exposure, ready to transplant

Transplanting Tips

  • Timing: Spring or fall, avoid hot summer
  • Weather: Cloudy day or evening (reduces transplant shock)
  • Preparation: Water plants thoroughly before transplanting
  • Planting depth: Same as in container (except asparagus)
  • Spacing: Follow mature size recommendations
  • Aftercare: Water well, mulch, shade for first few days if sunny

Propagation Calendar

Spring

  • Divide summer/fall-blooming perennials
  • Take softwood cuttings
  • Plant asparagus crowns
  • Divide rhubarb
  • Start seeds indoors
  • Direct sow hardy perennials

Summer

  • Take semi-hardwood cuttings (rosemary, lavender)
  • Layer low-growing herbs
  • Pot up rooted cuttings

Fall

  • Divide spring-blooming perennials
  • Take root cuttings (horseradish)
  • Divide rhubarb
  • Plant divisions
  • Winter sow seeds outdoors

Winter

  • Stratify seeds in refrigerator
  • Plan propagation projects
  • Order seeds and supplies

Troubleshooting Propagation Problems

Seeds Don't Germinate

Causes: Old seed, wrong temperature, insufficient stratification, too deep/shallow

Solutions: Use fresh seed, check temperature requirements, stratify properly, follow depth guidelines

Cuttings Rot

Causes: Too much moisture, poor drainage, dirty tools

Solutions: Improve drainage, reduce watering, sterilize tools, increase air circulation

Cuttings Wilt

Causes: Too little humidity, too much sun, not enough water

Solutions: Increase humidity (dome/bag), provide shade, mist more frequently

Divisions Don't Establish

Causes: Transplant shock, wrong timing, inadequate watering

Solutions: Divide in cool weather, keep well-watered, mulch, provide temporary shade

Building a Propagation Station

A dedicated space for propagation increases success:

  • Location: Bright indirect light, protected from wind
  • Heat mat: For bottom heat (70-75°F)
  • Grow lights: For seed starting indoors
  • Humidity dome: For cuttings
  • Rooting medium: Perlite, vermiculite, peat, coco coir
  • Containers: Cell packs, pots, trays with drainage
  • Tools: Sharp knife, pruners, labels, markers
  • Supplies: Rooting hormone, fungicide, spray bottle

The Joy of Propagation

Propagating your own perennials offers rewards beyond saving money:

  • Preservation: Keep rare or heirloom varieties alive
  • Sharing: Give plants to friends and family
  • Learning: Deepen understanding of plant biology
  • Satisfaction: Pride in growing from start to finish
  • Abundance: Fill your garden without breaking the bank
  • Connection: Link to generations of gardeners who saved and shared plants

Start with easy perennials like chives, mint, or thyme. As you gain confidence, tackle more challenging propagation like rosemary cuttings or asparagus from seed. Each success builds your skills and your garden, creating abundance that multiplies year after year.

That's the magic of perennial propagation: one plant becomes many, and your garden grows not just in size but in your connection to the living cycles of growth, renewal, and sharing.

Previous article Composting and Soil Building for Long-Term Perennial Garden Fertility
Next article Creating a Four-Season Food Garden with Perennials